Sustainability

Heera Clothing did not start out as a sustainability project. My goal with this business was to make modern South Asian clothing available to a younger generation in the UK, regardless of their background. By doing this, I could raise awareness of the textiles, techniques and origins of these clothes. The message has always been clear; our products are for anyone, as long as you know where they come from. The process seemed even clearer. Clothes made in India, to sell to customers in the UK.

Then, after six months of operating, I realised we were doing it all wrong.

True South Asian textiles do not function like textiles in the fast fashion industry. The craft and skill that goes into our clothing is meant for longevity, not disposal. Whether this means Bengali communities repurposing old textiles into new rugs and quilts using traditional Kantha work, or grandmothers in my family’s home state of Punjab hand-stitching intricate Phulkari patterns into garments for their granddaughter’s wedding gifts. This level of care and attention is not meant for a short life. The more research I carried out the more I realised where I was going wrong. Instead of adapting traditional South Asian textiles to a typical model of make- use – discard, I needed to understand the importance of durability and craft in our clothes.

So where were we going wrong?

By focussing on using new textiles to create our garments, we have been failing to appreciate the level of craftsmanship that has gone into South Asian fabrics that are already in circulation. In direct contradiction to traditional practices across the region, South Asian fashion has become just another part of the unrelenting cycle of textile waste. We bring clothing over from South Asia for weddings and parties, we wear them once or maybe twice, and then… they sit in the wardrobe. Or they are sent to charities that can’t sell them on. Or we swear we will take them back to South Asia (whenever we manage to book that trip). It’s not hard to see that many of these beautiful, handcrafted pieces end up amongst the 92 million tonnes of textile waste that is generated every year. Ironically, South Asian countries (like many other countries in the Global South) are then often burdened with this textile waste as it comes in from around the world to pollute their towns, cities and ecosystems. It’s another example of a world that disproportionally caters for the needs of certain populations at the expense of others.

So, what have we decided to do about it?

Our new model is simple. We collect South Asian post-consumer textile waste in the UK. These garments are checked, cleaned and then re-made into new products for our fashionable, eco-conscious customers. In the UK we can’t recreate the original skill and care that goes into these garments when they are first made, but we can make sure that they are valued for as long as possible.

The benefits are obvious- we take textiles that are already in circulation and divert them from wasting away in wardrobes or heading to landfill. Anything we can’t use, we guarantee will be donated for re-wear in poor communities in South Asia, or passed along to recycling companies who can ensure these textiles are usefully put back into the textile system. This is down to every last scrap of fabric so nothing goes to waste. By moving production to the North East we can support local businesses in the area and help boost our economy. We also remove the need for importing clothing from South Asia so our emissions are even lower.

And for our customers? You get clothing made from unique, artisanal South Asian textiles with none of the guilt or uncertainty that comes from not knowing what the environmental impact of your clothing is, or how ethical (or unethical) the manufacturing process was. Environmentally friendly clothing that represents South Asian heritage, made in the North East. Everyone wins!